Place the side branches in a salad bowl. Whatever you do, don’t add any more salt to the water. Because its flavour conjures up images of the seaside, samphire is often served with fish, but I thought it was perfect in a simple potato salad – potatoes love salt. The samphire’s flavour mellows a little when cooked, and the saltiness becomes much more pleasurable (just make sure you use unsalted butter!). Meanwhile, mix the garlic with the lemon juice and the olive oil. A large handful of parsley, roughly chopped . 2 tbsp red wine vinegar . Once the samphire is cold or lukewarm, brush the smaller side branches from the main stalks by holding the main stalk near the root and rubbing your hand along it lightly. Samphire can be used raw in salad if it's rinsed well, but because it tends to be very salty, it's more often cooked – either briefly fried in butter, for a couple of minutes in simmering water, or in a steamer for a few minutes.